Gay in Borghese

Wednesday, September 12, Rome

It is a spectacular day in Rome.  Today's adventure took me to the Borghese Gardens Gallery.  On the northeast section of the "central city", this park is described by Rick Steves as "slightly seedy".  He also describes the part of town where I am staying as "slightly seedy".  I have concluded that "slightly seedy" is a good description of my holiday preferences.

After getting onto the wrong bus (going the wrong way) then finally finding the right bus, I arrived at the Borghese (bore-GAY-sea) Gardens.  This park, 148 acres, is on a hill, shady, and filled with ancient and baroque sculptures and fountains.  There are several playgrounds, a guided pony ride, rowboat rentals in a pond full of ducks and sculpture, and bike rentals.  I rented a one-speed bike, and spent a few delighted hours exploring the park.  Nannies with their kids come to the park, locals in love, and musicians playing guitar, harmonium, accordion who try to coax a few Euros from the bicycling American. As long as they didn't play "Mac the Knife", I was a happy music customer.

The showpiece of the park is the "Borghese Gallery", an art museum set in a 17th century villa.  It is over-the-top-decadent.  Cardinal Scipione Borghese was the non-religious nephew of the pope. (Nepotism at its most evident).  While not being too keen on the Catholic religion, he was fanatical about art.  He parlayed his extensive influence, and the Church's wealth, into buying, stealing, and coercing a very fine art collection.  (When he could not buy a piece of art that he wanted, he'd trump up some reason to have the art's owner arrested, and then offer him clemency in exchange for the art.  That rascal!)

This art museum has captured me.  The visits are two hours long; small groups are admitted at a single time, then kicked out after two hours.  It just was not enough time.  Before I left, I bought a ticket to return on Saturday.

http://www.galleriaborghese.it/artisti/edefault.htm

If you are interested, here is a link to some of the art.  The sculptures of Bernini took my breath away, especially "Apollo and Daphne".  How he made marble live!  And not just the skin and hair of the subjects, but the trees, leaves, and rocks all carved from marble. Breath-taking. There are Titians, Raphael's, Canova's, but the Bernini's stole the show for me.

On the way home, I stopped by a trattoria for wine and late lunch.  Another woman was relaxing at a nearby table, and we struck up conversation.  She is also vacationing solo in Rome.  Kasha, from Warsaw, is an attorney, 32 years old, on her first solo trip.  Beautiful, slim, blond, smart, and multilingual in Polish, German, and English, I have no idea why she thought it would be fun to talk to an old dumpy gramma, but we chatted away.   We spent a few hours drinking a bottle or so of wine, eating excellent lasagna, and solving all of life's important problems.  Which is to say, stay open to opportunity, be happy, and for her, don't "settle" on some dope just because her family thinks that she should be married.  She is leaving today, and had not made it to the Borghese Gallery.  I gave her one of the books I'd bought there, making her promise to come back some day.

My first experience with pickpockets was this morning, but I was not to be deceived.  A handsome young man tried to stop me on the sidewalk, "Lady, Lady, can I talk to you?"  I waved him off, quite strongly, as I had seen his "buddy" slouching along the wall of the building, and then get up as I got closer.  "No, no, I really have to talk to you!" I heard him call as I strode down the street.  I put on my "Mean Marge Face" and that was all that was to it.

I saw my little gypsy boy again this morning, with his mother and two younger sibs, one in-arms.  They were trolling the Campo Fiori looking for a few Euros.  Cute kid.

Note to self:  1) white pants are not practical, 2) when a landlord says that "washer and drier are included", ask if both are electric.  Yes, I have a washer and a drier.  Electric washer, and (wait for it) a folding metal drying rack.  Tough to dry the towels..

Wonderful day here in Rome.  I am in love with this city.