Getting my bearings

This morning, my first view of Rome was from the back of a taxi driven by Paulo, who followed the exhaust of every diesel-powered vehicle on the road. Between the airport and historic Rome lie unimpressive, rolling roads with suicidal drivers, all in cars about the size of Jada's Little Tyke's Cozy Coupe.  No kidding! 

One can read all of the guidebooks on the shelf, and still not get some basic information.  Such as, here in Rome, that piece of cobbled pavement, about as wide as the sidewalk from our Madison front door to our mailbox,  is actually a two-lane street which accommodates not only two lanes of teeny-tiny cars, but also pedestrians who have nowhere else to walk but in the "street".  Throw in about 5 motorbikes for every vehicle, and it is a slow-motion demolition derby.

Another piece of information that I missed: shoes must have toes.  No sandals or flip flops here, as walking on the raised and uneven cobblestones is just a dance with multiple toe-stubs. 

My flight over was smooth, for the most part.  I had a middle-section aisle seat with a couple about my age to my left.  Both Italian,  Mr. Wallue was a radiologist in Rome until a month ago. Ms. Iliana is an architect, as well as an artist who shows her work. 

Unfortunately, while visiting relatives in Park Falls, Wi. this summer, a large metal bar fell from Wallue's cousin's high garage shelf, and hit Wallue on the head.  Wallue's corneas exploded, and he has lost his vision.  He has had 4 surgeries since 8/1, and perhaps another in October will give him some sight in one eye.  However, on the plane, both eyes were heavily bandaged, and he cannot see at all.  He is dealing with this injury, the surgeries, and the knowledge that he will not work in radiology again.

One thing led to another, and Wallue ended up listening to Mozart and Chopin on my Bose headphones.  It helped him to pass the time on the plane.  And, somehow Iliana, Wallue, and I just hit it off.  Before we left the ground in Chicago, they urged me to extend my vacation another week and to stay with them.  By the time we landed in Rome, Iliana and I have plans for her to schlep me around the city this coming Thursday, and to show me what she loves about Rome.  Since her English is not to the level of Wallue's, it should be an interesting day.

Because Wallue can no longer practice medicine in Rome, they are selling their homes in Rome and moving to Chicago area to be closer to Wallue's doctors. 

Wallue and I share the fresh realization that every minute counts, every minute is a blessing, and one should not wait to accomplish one's dreams.  His energy and optimism energized me.

Let's see, what else to share for day one: Rosella, who with her brother Fabrizio owns my apartment, met me at the apartment and instructed me on its idiosyncrasies.  I am living in a fortress.  One of the walls of this building is actually part of the Pompey Theater.  This theater was rented by the Roman senators for their meetings, and is where Caesar was murdered.  Feet from where I am typing, he modestly wrapped his head and lower body in his toga, anticipating his death!  I am certain that I hear "Et Tu, Brute!" seeping from the walls.

The rest of the building was built in the 16th century, including the key for my apartment.  It can double as a weapon.  It is long, thick, ornate, highly-toothed and grooved, and certainly opens just this door. The lock itself is a 4-bolt deadlock.  I am on the 3rd floor, with a secured front door.  I have never felt so safe in a dwelling.  Or possibly imprisoned.

Between my nap and dinner time, I went for a walk. I got lost about 6 times, but only needed to ask directions once. Considering that Rome's streets (remember, really mini-sidewalks) have the organization of a bowl of pasta, I was happy with my navigation. My stroll took me through the Campo di Fiori, to the Plaza Navona, Pantheon, Parliament, Trevi Fountain, and Spanish Steps at Piazza di Spaga.  Magnificent, particularly the Pantheon. Today was a plate of appetizers; I will go back with my camera in a few days.

There is the usual tourist kitch, including costumed Roman guards at some sites, who try to bully tourists into paying the "guards" to pose in pictures.  There are artists and their wares at the Plaza Navona, along with many performance artists. It was weird to hear The Beatles' "Let It Be" played on a violin by a very young girl, hoping for a few Euros in her case. The oddest thing that I saw was a man dressed as Superman, and looking quite a bit like Christopher Reeves, except instead of tights, he was wearing a thong. Just walking down the street, do-dee-do-dee-do, scarlet cape flapping in the wind.

A sax player played "Max the Knife" tonight during dinner.  That song did not fit at all with my view of a "Roman Experience".
A note on safety: I felt totally safe all day and never saw any gypsies. I will say that I saw a large and intentionally visible police presence throughout my walk.  There was even a military helicopter hovering around the Parliament long into the evening.

For my dinner, I walked about 50 yards to the Campo di Fiori.  Coming out of my apartment, a short archway leads through the Pompey Theater to the Campo Fiori.  The archway is as ancient, and the marble steps are concave in the center from centuries of footfalls.  In the morning, the Campo di Fiori resembles a musical Madison Farmer's Market.  By mid-afternoon, the market is gone, and dozens of restaurants have moved tables and chairs into the plaza.  I ate there tonight, while performance artists played sax, juggled, and tried to pick up girls under the gaze of the massive statue of Giordano Bruno.  Bruno's statue stands where he was burned at the stake for his heretic idea that there should be a separation of Church and State.  Several young men were dressed in skirts, with penis hats on their heads, carrying signs saying "guess if we are wearing underwear!"  They never asked me to guess, so I never found out.  Thankfully.

The vendors are plying a type of lit-up helicopter toy.  When it is thrown in the air, it goes straight up, but falling from its apex, it floats and twirls slowly.  It is lit with a neon blue light, similar to 4th of July Glo-Stix. With about 30 vendors trying to outdo each other with the height of their tosses, the dark night sky was exploding with these blue shooting stars.  Dinner was fresh seafood salad, excellent wine, wood-fired vege pizza and the best chocolate tiramasu on earth.  Heaven.

A note on photos:  I took zero shots today.  While I took my camera on one short walk, I found that I was too busy just getting my bearings, to really concentrate on shots.  I did find a number of shooting spots that I will return to.  One is a store of crystal beads, where vibrant glass balls are strung throughout the store, and also outside like strings of garlic.  The owner promised to give me freedom in his store, if I send him a photo.  Of course!

The light is lovely, warm with the reflections of the pinks and pale yellows of the buildings.  This is a beautiful place.  I cannot wait to see what tomorrow brings.